When you meet people for the first time, on learning that I am a former Michelin Guide Inspector, the first question everyone always asks is, where and what was your best meal ever?
It was 1996 (a date of significance) and I was working as General Manager at The Duxton in Singapore, when I was asked this question by Pierre and Michel Troisgros at their restaurant in Roanne. I had journeyed there to discuss a collaboration in Singapore. The foggy weather, the steep hills and my rented lowly powered Fiat Uno combined to me not making it for lunch and I arrived at the restaurant too late to enjoy the cuisine. Father and son were particularly kind in offering me a light snack and talked with me in the cocktail lounge.
When asked inevitably, what was my best meal ever, not for the first time, I began my story. As a UK Michelin Guide Inspector, we do regularly visit France to ensure standards are consistent. I was in Lyons and on my last evening. Restaurant Paul Bocuse at Collonges au Mont D’Or was booked and I would accompany two French Inspectors. I anticipated a perfect example of classic three Michelin star cooking. It has to be said, I had a great meal that evening, however it would not become my best meal ever. Unfortunately, or perhaps in hindsight, fortunately, Chef Paul had left for the evening when we settled our bill and announced ourselves. Regrettably I would not meet the Great man. I explained to Madame Bocuse that my flight was the next day at lunchtime. She duly invited us to return at 1000am to tour the restaurant and meet Chef Paul.
The next day we arrived at 9:55am, my suitcase packed and in the boot of the car. We entered the not yet open restaurant, and were escorted by Madame Bocuse to a private room to await her husband. He duly arrived, a giant of a man. He not only towered above us, but lit the room up with a smile of great warmth. As he launched into greetings in speedy colloquial French, I was catching about one word in ten, which he quickly realized and questioned me on my lack of dialogue and my silence. I explained I was “un Ecossais” over from the UK and my French was sadly only schoolboy plus. I also advised him that I would return home today, actually in a couple of hours.
He insisted that I could not leave France without experiencing true French hospitality. The kitchen was fully staffed preparing for lunch service, however Chef Paul immediately tasked restaurant and kitchen employees both to set up a table and prepare some dishes and the sommelier was summoned to bring wine. The table was set and with Chef Paul sitting on a small three-legged stool beside me, I began what would become, my best meal ever.
We were presented with Dom Perignon 1971 in Magnum to start our celebration. Promptly a plate of Salade aux Truffes Noir arrived, with more black truffles in front of me than I had seen in a lifetime. This was partnered with a Puligny Montrachet 1978 Etienne Sauzet. No sooner than I had finished my starter, than a Rouget au Pommes Ecaille arrived; delicate, with perfect potato scales. Then, the piece de resistance, a supreme de volaille en vessie; chicken cooked in a pigs bladder cut open at the table with a truffle cream sauce. Rich and deep in flavor, classic French cooking at its best. The sommelier opened a Domaine de la Romanee Conte 1966;...I will not comment. This wine was silky smooth and velvety, overflowing with fruit. We finished this off with a petit saint Marcelin cheese from the region, soft and runny with a creamy texture and rich flavor. To end, a classic tarte tatin. I was running out of time and Chef Paul said not to worry, he would take me to the airport. After a short stop at the boutique for a couple of cookbooks, he bundled me into his Mercedes for the short trip to the airport. My colleagues followed closely behind as we broke every speed limit en route to Lyons airport.
Paul, in chef whites, clogs and toque accompanied me through the airport, arm around my waist whilst airport staff and passengers alike called out to him, “the Mayor of Lyons”, the Godfather of cooking. He is a local celebrity which brings certain privileges; one being he seems to have free run of the airport as he is still with me as we proceed through customs and onto the plane where he finally bids me au revoir.
What an experience!
As I finished telling this story to Father and son Troisgros, there was an eery hush and I felt a tap on my shoulder. Turning around, to my surprise it was none other than Paul Bocuse himself, with the same smile as when we last met, more than ten years ago. He had been listening to my entire story and was in Roanne to celebrate his 70th birthday. I joined him and the Troisgros at his table in the restaurant with his family. What a day!
I never tire of remembering this experience or indeed of telling this story; that was, my best meal ever!